{"id":558,"date":"2010-10-07T17:03:00","date_gmt":"2010-10-07T12:03:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.lakelandarc.org\/2010\/10\/rust-remover-for-morse-code\/"},"modified":"2020-03-14T22:18:09","modified_gmt":"2020-03-14T17:18:09","slug":"rust-remover-for-morse-code","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.lakelandarc.org\/2010\/10\/rust-remover-for-morse-code\/","title":{"rendered":"Rust Remover For Morse Code"},"content":{"rendered":"
Don Jeerings<\/span> was kind enough to supply the following circuit and parts list. It is certainly a more complicated approach than an electro magnet or piezo buzzer in series with a key and battery, but if you are interested in learning more about the 555 timer, and dusting off those soldering skills the extra effort is justified.<\/p>\n Here is the parts list:<\/strong><\/p>\n 1, 9 volt battery connector So you want to sharpen those rusty Morse code skills. Short of humming dits and dahs you might want to generate some sounds using a key. We all remember those buzzers we used as kids. They were basically door bells with the hammer removed, and didn’t produce a very realistic sound. Today, by replacing the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-558","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-general"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.lakelandarc.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/558","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.lakelandarc.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.lakelandarc.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.lakelandarc.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.lakelandarc.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=558"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/blog.lakelandarc.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/558\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1196,"href":"https:\/\/blog.lakelandarc.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/558\/revisions\/1196"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.lakelandarc.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=558"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.lakelandarc.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=558"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.lakelandarc.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=558"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
2. Resistor, 689 ohm (in stock
3, Resistor 1 K (in stock)
4. Resistor 10 K 5, pot
5. 25 K (pitch control)
6. pot 500 ohm (volume control)
7. Condenser 0.22 Mfd<\/span>
8. Condenser 10 Mfd<\/span>
9. Speaker 8 ohm $1.29 (Jameco<\/span>)
10 IC<\/span> chip 555 timer
11 8 pin dip socket
12 Key jack
13 Substrate of some sort to mount the above equipment <\/div>\n<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"